Karaikudi culture
Savithri Rodrigo is impressed by the Chettinad influence on South India
There’s a vibe of old Chettiar splendour that continues to pulsate in Karaikudi, which is a former bastion of the entrepreneurial caste of India. In the 19th and 20th centuries, Karaikudi was rich and homes were ornate Mughal style mini-forts replete with onion domes, hundreds of Burma teak windows and doors, and an equal number of rooms leading to multiple courtyards and rooftops.
They had cellars, stables and baths, intricately carved ceilings, mosaic walls, Belgian mirrors, Murano chandeliers and handcrafted Chettinad tiles on floors. Gold was worn from head to foot, even on ankles and toes, and life was heady.
But such a lifestyle was temporary and the Chettiars eventually lost their fortunes – still, they left behind a legacy of amazing architecture, extensive tracts of land, mouth-watering cuisine and artisanal craft.
LIFE’S MOSAICS Drive around Karaikudi for a heady impression of awesome Chettiar architecture. Some homes, despite retaining the grandeur of an opulent era, show signs of rack and ruin. Others have been transformed into boutique hotels such as Chidambara Vilas, which depict a magical era where riches were commonplace. The Kanadukathan Chettinadu Palace and the Thirumayam Fort offer great photo ops.
WOVEN STORIES For a spot of retail therapy, walk down the quiet street adjoining the palace where two weaving houses showcase a kaleidoscope of colour combinations in saris and shawls that only the Chettiars have an eye for. Sift through dusty rooms on Antique Street for brass and copper artefacts, old Chinese trade and storage vessels, lamps, Chettinadu tiles and so on.
RELIGIOUS TRIP Karaikudi has the famed rock carved cave shrine of Pillaiyarpatti Pillaiyar Temple dedicated to Lord Ganesh with its 14 stone sculptures and 2nd century inscriptions. An hour away is the 11th century Brihadeeswara Temple in Thanjavur and this Great Living Chola Temple has one of the world’s tallest structures of its time. Its granite complex is an exemplary illustration of Dravidian architecture with intricate sculpture and one of the largest Shiva lingams in India.
TASTEBUDS A gastronomic journey in Chettinadu cuisine begins on a banana leaf. There is an infinite parade of uniquely cooked vegetables, rice with podi and ghee, fried fish, mutton, papadum, curd and halva made with the most unusual ingredients including beetroot. For the not so finicky, Sri Priya Mess is worth visiting (best before 1 p.m.) for some of the best non-vegetarian Chettinadu fare. The country chicken, crab and prawn preparations are divine.
